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After the first few weeks of use, the whole bike will settle down. As a result, the gears may need tweaking, some nuts and bolts may need tightening and you may well need to check the adjustment of the saddle and handlebars. CABLE STRETCHĬable stretch tends to occur shortly after a new bike has been ridden a few times. A rear derailleur that we have tuned to hit every gear, nicely and quietly, may now not be making each shift causing a sensation and sound of “being in between gears”. Generally you may have to shift up, or shift down a couple times to quiet it down and settle the derailleur into a “happy gear”. A front derailleur may no longer want to shift all the way onto the big ring or will require a much firmer push to get it there.

It is advisable to get the cable tension adjusted as soon as this happens either by your local bike shop. This tune up is considered a necessary part of any bicycles maintenance schedule and as such should not be ignored. Your brakes will also be affected by cable stretch (provided of course that they are NOT hydraulic in which case this does not apply). The symptom here is that they usually start to feel quite loose. you have to pull the lever much further back or harder in order to get the same stopping power you once had.

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This is partly why new bikes come with a first free service. If your brakes start feeling a little spongy after a few weeks, you can adjust them at the barrel or the clamp or ask a mechanic at your local bike shop to do it for you.

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New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. SRAM has a really good guide for bedding in disc brakes: #TREK ZIPTITE 2 HELMET FULL# trek ziptite 2 helmet full New disc brakes won’t deliver their full power until the rotor and pads have bedded in. “Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed and then firmly applying the brakes until you are at walking speed. Then accelerate the bike to a faster speed and apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. It’s important that during this process you never come to a complete stop or lock up the wheels at any point.”ĭoing this process should drastically improve the performance of your brakes and prepare them for many happy rides. CRANKSĬheck the cranks and crank bolts or nut for tightness grab a crank arm in each hand and try to wiggle them to check for looseness. If there is play in the cranks, the nuts or bolts may need to be tightened. Cranks should be checked after every ride for the first week. HEADSETĪ loose headset can be diagnosed by turning the front wheel to point left or right, holding the front brake on, and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards. Hold your fingers between the stem and the frame. Any movement indicates that you need to tighten the headset.

SADDLEĬheck your seat post is not loose and that you have not exceeded the limit marked on the seat post. Once you have checked these, use an allen key to tighten the seat post clamp. Check the seat is secure by giving it another check once you have finished. STEMĬheck that your front wheel and stem do not move independently, and that your handlebar clamp bolts are tight.

Perform this check by standing in front of the bike, holding the front wheel between your knees, and twisting the handlebars.

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